The story we captured is about a retiree who, despite his age, continues to surf on a regular basis. Despite being 70 years old he has not lost his energy and enthusiasm for life.
While there he began to feel tired and worn alienating himself from the industrial rhythms, until he has been introduced to surf world by his friend Dany.
The ocean has become his place of sanctuary; surfing a necessity. His new found love has gave him an appreciation for life that he wasn’t able to discover until now. As it comes to the perfect timing when catching the right wave, we just so happened to catch him at the right moment in his life. This is his story.